The worst thing you can do in Paris is too much. You can spend your days racing through the Louvre, catching back-to-back reservations and scrambling across the city until you get 30,000 steps in one day.
But in my opinion, the best way to spend your days here is by slowing down: have a picnic, people-watch from a café and enjoy your surroundings.
Guidebooks can be helpful for the big hitters, such as the popular museums and the famous landmarks. You should absolutely say hello to the Mona Lisa while nudging your way through the crowd and marvel at the Eiffel Tower.
I studied there for a summer, and I was immediately overwhelmed at first. It can be big, loud and daunting. I made it my mission to seek out the coolest spots that I would send my best friend to – the spots that feel like Paris, but also like you have a little secret.
Neighborhoods
The Marais is easily the coolest neighborhood in Paris, and almost everyone on the internet agrees. The baristas have sleeve tattoos, everyone dresses like they just stepped off a runway and you’ll probably run into multiple pop-up shops without trying.
You can (and should) spend a whole afternoon wandering around here, window shopping and stopping at a café for an overpriced drink. Marché des Enfants Rouges is a good stop for lunch – it’s the oldest covered market in Paris and you’re bound to find a food stall you like. L’as du Falaffel is perfect for a greasy, chaotic bite – this is a place that cheap, drunk college kids swear by at 2 a.m.
Located way out in the thirteenth arrondissement, Chinatown is a trek away from the heart of Paris, and it feels like a completely different world. This is not your typical chic boulangerie and pastel macarons territory. The signs and menus are in Mandarin, the restaurants are cash-only and you’ll hear very little French.
The food is heavenly. You can get an entire meal for the price of a single croissant you would buy in Saint-Germain-des-Prés. I only started coming here because a friend begged me to help him track down a specific brand of Chinese cigarettes sold only in the area, but I ended up falling for the neighborhood. Chinatown doesn’t feel like you’re in Paris, but it’s refreshing.
The Latin Quarter is another lively, youthful neighborhood. Home to La Sorbonne, you’ll see students with textbooks, intellectuals lingering over espressos and people scribbling in notebooks in dimly lit cafés. It’s a little cliche and crowded, but it’s undeniably charming.
Bastille and Quartier d’Algire are two solid picks. There’s not a lot to necessarily do in this area in terms of landmarks, but that’s the point. Marché d’Aligre is a nice food market that’s worth browsing. This part of the city is where you go to have a long dinner and even a longer night. The wine bars are snobby in the best way, the tiny tapas joints turn into dance parties by midnight and it’s the ideal place to spend a Saturday night that turns into a Sunday morning pastry run.
Things
The Bourdelle Museum is dedicated to the work of Antoine Bourdelle, whose statues you might recognize from the Musée d’Orsay. This museum is free and rarely crowded – you’ll probably see only ten other people on your visit. The gardens are peaceful, and the statues tower over you. The Carnavalet Museum, which tells the history of Paris, and the Petit Palais, a gorgeous art museum, are two more picks for free museums.
My architecture teacher always claimed Parc Des Buttes-Chaumont was the prettiest park in Paris, and I have to agree. It’s dramatic cliffs, suspension bridge and gorgeous views, you feel like you’re stepping into a fantasy novel.
The covered galleries, such as Galerie Vivienne and Passage Choiseul, are a fun way to spend an afternoon shopping and eating. These shopping areas preceded the concept of a shopping mall, and their glass ceilings remain timeless.
Before New York City had the High Line, Paris had the Coulée Verte. It’s an old railway track turned into an elevated walking path. It’s one of the most interesting walks you can take – you can see the city from above, offering glimpses into spaces you could never see from the street.
Coffee
The coffee scene in Paris isn’t what it was 15 years ago. The old men sipping scorching hot espresso have been met with Gen Z coffee drinkers who introduced the city to the concept of an iced coffee.
Noir is an obvious choice and easy favorite. They have several locations, but the one in the ninth arrondissement is the most Instagrammable, with a cool spiral staircase that makes you want to savor your drink.
If you’re heading to the Luxembourg Gardens, CHĒZ Coffee&Co is a short walk away. It’s perfect for picking up a drink and a pastry to enjoy in the park rather than paying garden café prices.
The Coffee is all over social media, and it’s for a good reason. It’s modern and the perfect place for a matcha in a minimalist space.
At Magic Carpet Café, Brooklyn meets Paris in this laid-back corner spot. The owners are nice, and the playlist is always good. A young barista with no makeup and curly hair will gladly make you an iced coffee without giving you a side eye.
Food and drinks
Some of my favorite afternoons were spent shopping at La Grande Épicerie. It’s a multi-story, high-end grocery store where you can buy anything you’ve ever craved. It’s the perfect place to scout out items for a picnic. Grab something from the hot bar, a block of cheese and maybe a pastry then head to Square Boucicaut nearby for a picnic.
When it comes to crêpes, all my loyalty lies with Krügen Trousseau. I still dream of the one stuffed with potatoes, gooey cheese and savory meat. The staff use the informal “tu” here instead of “vous” to address you, which always threw me a little off guard at first, but made me feel like a regular upon my second visit.
La Grille is exactly what you want in a brasserie – it’s warm, bustling and unpretentious. If you want to try couscous, this is the place. By my second visit, the young waiter was sending me off with an enthusiastic bisous.
La Felicità is what every food hall should be, and it’s also my go-to recommendation for a big group. You can find anything there – pasta, pizza, sandwiches, dessert and even a tall pitcher of beer for everyone to share.
On Tuesdays, Acà sells one-euro tacos. If you need somewhere to eat on a Tuesday, this should be it.
If you want a classic French bistro experience, La Promenade is cute and not overly expensive, while Aux Bons Crus is another reliable and quintessential bistro dinner.
Moonshiner and Candelaria are two good choices for a nightcap. They’re both speakeasies that are hard to find – chances are, it will take a few minutes to find the right door. Drinks can be a bit expensive, but in theory, you’re paying for the ambiance.
